Why go?
Birthplace of Australian Rules Football, host of the 1956 Olympic Games, home of both the Australian Open and the Australian Grand Prix, Melbourne can rightly claim to be the sportiest city in a country where sport is the only true religion.
The Melbourne Cup may indeed be the horse race that “stops a nation” but the same could also be said of the traditional Boxing Day Test at the “G” (the Melbourne Cricket Ground) – or indeed, the AFL Grand Final when 100,000 fans pack the stands. Despite this obsession with sport, Melbourne is not a one-dimensional society.
Even Sydneysiders – its sternest critics – now concede that Melbourne has a superior restaurant and bar scene. The southern capital also sets the pace when it comes to fashion, theatre, design and architecture. It’s also quite funny. Remember a certain housewife superstar who hailed from Moonee Ponds?
Victoria is also Australia’s most compact state, which means the Great Ocean Road, the Yarra Valley and Phillip Island with its fairy penguins are right on the doorstep. So, after decades of playing second fiddle to Sydney, “Marvellous Melbourne” is recovering its lustre, with a thrusting city skyline, a new entertainment precinct and a pulsating Docklands area.
Stuffy? Old-fashioned? Nonsense. Caffeine-fuelled, sports-mad and outward looking, Melbourne is unquestionably Australia’s most exciting and diverse metropolis. Go now.
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When to go?
Unlike Perth, Sydney and the Gold Coast, Melbourne has not given its soul to the beach. Theatre, fine food and competitive sport are really the dominant forces here – not the changing seasons.
Your visit to Melbourne is probably more likely to be dictated by an event – the Australian Open, the Comedy Festival or a new exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria – than the climate, which is notoriously changeable; locals say that Melbourne has “four seasons in the same day”. Just remember that winters here (June to August) can be bitterly cold, so wrap up.
Ten top sights
Hidden Secrets Tour
The winner of numerous tourism awards, the three-hour escorted Lanes and Arcades Tour (1) takes the visitor into the labyrinth of alleyways that make up the heart of old Melbourne. Visit obscure buildings, bespoke suppliers and groovy fashion label stores. Hidden Secrets Tours (00 61 3 9663 3358, www.hiddensecretstours.com), Suite 2, 37 Swanston Street, Melbourne. Tours cost AU$95, including coffee.
National Sports Museum
Australia’s newest attraction, located at the Melbourne Cricket Ground (2), celebrates the national obsession with sport. Meet a hologram of Shane Warne, see Ian Thorpe’s swimming trunks and 3,500 pieces of sporting memorabilia. National Sports Musem (00 61 3 9657 8879, www.nsm.org.au), Northern Stand, MCG, 120 Brunton Avenue Jolimont. Open daily, 10am-5pm. Closed on event days. Cost: AU$15 (adult), AU$11 (child).
Queen Victoria Market
Continuously operating since 1878, these markets (3) are one of Melbourne’s marvels – and a source of constant delight. Join a tour, have a coffee, chat to a grower or providore. Queen Victoria Market (00 61 3 9320 5822, http://www.qvm.com.au), 513 Elizabeth Street, City. Closed Mon, Wed and public holidays. Admission: Free.
Old Melbourne Gaol
Send a shiver up your spine with a visit to this house (4) of torture (and death). Notorious bushranger Ned Kelly was hanged here in 1880 – you can see the trapdoor where he once stood. His death mask is here. Old Melbourne Gaol (00 61 3 8663 7228, www.oldmelbournegaol.com.au), 377 Russell Street, City. Open daily. Admission: AU$21 (adult), AU$11 (child), AU$16 (concession).
Immigration Museum
Suppress your yawns, immigration is crucial to the history of Melbourne and this museum (5) tells its story in graphic detail. Displays include a 55ft replica transport ship. Immigration Museum (00 61 3 9927 2700, www.museumvictoria.com.au), 400 Flinders Street, City. Open daily. Admission: AU$8 (adult), children and concession holders are free.
Grainger Museum
Percy Aldridge Grainger is best known as the composer of Country Gardens, but this museum (6) reveals many other sides to an eccentric Australian genius. Located at the University of Melbourne (00 61 3 8344 5270, www.grainger.unimelb.edu.au), Gate 13, Royal Parade, Parkville. Open Tue-Fri, and Sun, 1pm-4.30pm. Admission: Free.
Eureka Skydeck 88
This is the highest platform in the southern hemisphere in a futuristic glass and steel tower block (7). Visitors occupy a glass cube, which slides out from the building. Eureka Skydeck 88 (00 61 3 9693 8888, www.eurekaskydeck.com.au), on the Southbank. Open daily. Admission: AU$17.50 (adult), AU$9 (child).
Royal Botanic Gardens
Established in 1846 these gardens (8) provide a window into Melbourne’s more genteel past. The gardens, which enclose the Shrine of Remembrance, now contain some 12,000 plant species. Royal Botanic Gardens (00 61 3 9252 2300, www.rbg.vic.gov.au), Birdwood Avenue, South Yarra, Victoria 3141. Open from 7.30am to dusk every day. Admission: Free.
Cook’s Cottage
The parental home of Captain James Cook (9), the celebrated navigator, dates back to 1755 and was transported from Yorkshire and re-erected in Fitzroy Gardens in 1933 – a time when white settlement was still a source of pride. Open daily, 9am-5pm. Admission: AU$4.50 (adult), AU$2.20 (child).
Melbourne Museum
The largest museum complex (10) in the southern hemisphere is dedicated to Australia’s flora, fauna, culture and way of life. Famous exhibits include champion race horse Phar Lap and the Bunjilaka Aboriginal Cultural Centre. www.museumvictoria.com.au. Open daily, 10am to 5pm. Admission: AU$8 (adult), children and concession holders are free.
Full guide and article on The Telegrapher.
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