A colourful place to visit: Bucharest, the Capital of Romania

Let’s take a look beyond the stereotypes…

I’m sure you’ve all heard about Romania – The Land of Dracula. But it’s more to this country than some legends with vampires written by English authors.

The capital of Romania, Bucharest, has been named one of the coolest cities in Europe by a French website.  It might sound surprising to you, as Romania has escaped communism only 22 years ago, but “Little Paris” can be one of the best places to party till dawn, take long walks across the river Dambovita, meet beautiful women or wander the streets in the Old Centre.

Rainbow over Basarab Bridge / Photo Diana Murgan via Bucuresti Optimist

Rainbow over Basarab Bridge / Photo Diana Murgan via Bucuresti Optimist

The French website Slate stated that Bucharest is the second coolest city in Europe, after Vienna. They reached this conclusion based on the night life, beer prices and the number of students located there.

Dambovita River / Photo: Ramona August. via Bucuresti Optimist

Dambovita River / Photo: Ramona August. via Bucuresti Optimist

The legends say that the city has been named after a shepherd called Dambovita Bucur, which literarily means joy. And let’s face it – that’s a good explanation for the Romanians’ good spirit and love for life.

Fountains on the Unirii Boulevard

Fountains on the Unirii Boulevard/Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

What to visit

In 1900, Bucharest earned the nickname of “Little Paris” because of its glorious Belle Époque buildings, tree-lined boulevards and the high life. At that time, Bucharest was a beautiful place to be in – the streets were packed with elegant people, artists, musicians, painters and writers.

House of the Free Press

House of the Free Press

Nowadays the city is a bustling metropolis, very urban and modern, although you can still see the scars left by the communist era and its leader – Nicolae Ceausescu.

But if you ever get the chance to visit this contradictory city bursting with history and diversity, don’t miss:

-    House of the Free Press – The building was completed in 1956, one year after the strikingly similar Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw, Poland.

-    The Arch of Triumph – This objective was initially built of wood, in 1922, to honour the bravery of Romanian soldiers who fought in World War I. Only in 1936 the granite Arch de Triumph was finished. An interior staircase allows visitors to climb to the top for a panoramic view of the city.

The Arch of Triumph

The Arch of Triumph

-    Victory Avenue – The oldest and most charming street in Bucharest was built in 1692 to link the Old Princely Court to Mogosoaia Palace. After the Romanian War of Independence victory, it became known as Calea Victoriei.

At this time, it was one of the most fashionable streets in the city and if you strolled along, you could discover some of the most stunning buildings in the city – the Cantacuzino Palace, the historical Revolution Square, the Military Club, the CEC Headquarters and the National History Museum.

Revolution Square

Revolution Square

-    Revolution Square – This is the place were communism in Romania came to an end. The square became known around the globe when TV stations broadcasted Nicolae Ceausescu final moments, on December 21, 1989.

However, you should know that the square’s importance goes back long before the dramatic events of the 1989 Revolution.

Lascar Catargiu towards Piata Romana/Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Lascar Catargiu towards Piata Romana/Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

On the light side of the square stands the former Royal Palace, now home to the National Art Museum, the stunning Romanian Athenaeum and the historic Athenee Palace Hotel. At the south end of the square, you can visit the small, but beautiful, Kretzulescu Church.

Romanian Athenaeum

Romanian Athenaeum

Moreover, like you all imagined, Bucharest has an important communist legacy - Parliament House and Civic Center.

Parliament House

Parliament House

 - Formerly known as the People’s Palace, the Parliament Palace is the second largest administrative building in the world after the Pentagon.

The building boasts 12 stories, 1100 rooms, a 328-ft-long lobby and four underground levels, including an enormous nuclear bunker.

A guided tour takes visitors through dazzling rooms, huge halls and they get to see the work of the country’s best Artisans.

Parliament House

Parliament House/Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Today, the building serves as an International Conference Centre and it houses Romania’s Parliament.

Some interesting facts about this magnificent construction are that the Crystal Chandelier in the Human Rights Hall weights 2.5 tons and some of the other chandeliers have 7000 bulbs.

Loving nature

If you are not into historical buildings, Bucharest has some wonderful parks and gardens where you can walk, relax and enjoy the nature.

For example, Cismigiu Garden, oldest park in Bucharest, was opened to the public in 1860, after it was designed in 1845 by the German landscape architect Carl Meyer.

Cismigiu Garden

Cismigiu Garden/ Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Here you will have the opportunity to see more than 30,000 trees and plants, which were brought from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were imported from the botanical gardens in Vienna.

Cismigiu Garden

Cismigiu Garden/Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Another great attraction is the Botanical Garden, opened in 1891. This amazing place features over 5,000 varieties of plants from Romania and around the world.

Cismigiu Garden

Cismigiu Garden/Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Also people from Bucharest can be proud of another wonderful place – Herastrau Park. Spread over 400 acres, the park hosts numerous attractions, including a boat rental complex, tennis courts and a variety of restaurants on the lake.

Where to have fun

As I said in the beginning, Bucharest was voted one of the coolest cities in Europe. And that’s because people here know how to have fun and they don’t need much money to do so.

La Motoare pub / Photo Mihai Ignat via Bucuresti Optimist

La Motoare pub and terrace/ Photo Mihai Ignat via Bucuresti Optimist

University Square

University Square/Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Beer is very cheap, less than £1, and the food is amazing. Romanians are known worldwide for their great and tasty food and if you visit Bucharest you should definitely try some traditional courses.  We recommend you the Beer Cart Restaurant, opened since 1879.

Lipscani District at dusk / Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Lipscani District at dusk / Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

If you want to party you should definitely go to Lipscani District. In this area you will discover the city’s unique charm – pubs, restaurants, clubs and a diversity of young people. This part of the city is always alive, both nights and days.

Clubs: Fabrica & B52 / Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Clubs: Fabrica & B52 / Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Back in the day, Lipscani was a residential area and a place where you could find all kinds of artists and writers. Today, the old city center is very modern, but if you look carefully, you can still find Antiques shops and a mix of cultures in the architectural styles, from baroque and neoclassical to art nouveau.

Vilacrosse passage

Vilacrosse passage/Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

In Bucharest you can experience amazing parties and clubs – from Drum&Bass to rock, disco or commercial. If you want to start your journey to party land, you should begin at University Square – one of the most popular meeting places in Bucharest.

This is also known as the Ground Zero, the place where you’ll find a monument built in the honour of those who lost their lives in December ‘89.

The tube and the buses should take you anywhere you want and if you ever find yourself lost, don’t be shy to ask for directions, people in Bucharest are pretty sociable and nice.

Boulevard 13 Septembrie / Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Boulevard 13 Septembrie / Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

If you want to learn more about Romania and Bucharest, there is a large variety of museums you can visit: Art Collections Museum, Bucharest History & Art Museum, Cotroceni Palace & Museum, George Enescu Museum, Gregory Antipa Natural History Museum, Museum of the Romanian Peasant, National Art Museum National, Geological Museum, National Museum of Contemporary or the Art Village Museum.

The downsides

Like any other city in the world, Bucharest is not only milk and honey. First of all, you should be careful with taxi drivers, who can easily fool you, especially if you don’t know the city.

Then, there are a lot of stray dogs on the streets – most of them are innocent, but this doesn’t mean you shouldn’t look out for yourself. And keep your eyes wide open for one of the most insane car traffic in Europe.

You should be careful with taxi drivers

You should be careful with taxi drivers/Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

Bucharest is indeed very cool and colourful, but it lacks the tidiness and the discipline of  the Western German cities, as people still choose to remain indifferent to the bins on the streets, the beggars on every corner or the antique buildings on the edge of collapse.

In this city you will find a mixture of good and bad, colour and noir, old and new, high class and poverty, that will amaze you, especially when you see all of these extremes combing so awkwardly well.

Garbage art :)

Garbage art :) /Photo: Bucuresti Optimist

View from above / Photo Andreea Capraru via Bucuresti Optimist

View from above / Photo Andreea Capraru via Bucuresti Optimist

There’s a say that Bucharest has grown into a city of contrasts, that is probably why you only have two choices when it comes to it – love it or not.

Photo courtesy of Bucuresti Optimist

Discover other Eastern European destinations here

Amsterdam Insider Tips

Amsterdam

Welcome back city lovers to another Friday edition of I Heart My City. This week Keith Jenkins, traveler and writer behind the Velvet Escape blog, gives us his insider’s tour of Amsterdam. Read on to discover some of Keith’s great tips, like where to score the city’s best Flemish fries.

Original post via National Geographic.

Amsterdam is My City

Amsterdam’s Begijnjof (Keith Jenkins)

The first place I take a visitor from out of town is the Begijnhof or Nunnery in the heart of Amsterdam; a tranquil place with beautiful houses and trees. It’s simply a magical place.

When I crave Dutch (or Flemish) fries, with mayonnaise of course, I always go to Fleminckx (Voetboogstraat 31, a small lane between the Spui square and the Heiligeweg). Simply the best fries in town!

To escape the daily grind of blogging, I head into town for a leisurely stroll along the canals or an afternoon at one of the many terraces to people-watch. Any of the terraces at Rembrandt plein (square) is a good bet for an entertaining afternoon.

For complete quiet, I can hide away in the countryside just north of Amsterdam. There are many options but my favorites are the area around the little village of Schoorl (simply ‘Holland At Its Best‘) or the islands of Texel or Vlieland with their endless beaches and dunes.

If you come to my city, get your picture taken on the drawbridge that crosses the Groenburgwal canal. Amsterdam is very photogenic and there are many great spots for a memorable picture. When you’re on the bridge, keep an eye out for Amsterdammers on their bikes to avoid being run over!

If you have to order one thing off the menu from Saturnino (my favorite Italian restaurant) it has to be the sirloin steak with black truffles and porcini mushrooms.

Locals know to skip the canal tours and check out options for hiring a boat instead. It’s so much more fun to hire a boat, pack a picnic basket and cruise through the canals at your own pace. The canals of Amsterdam offer visitors a unique window into the history of the city and the lifestyle of its inhabitants.

When I’m feeling cash-strapped I go to my favorite neighborhood restaurant: Eten aan de Rijn. I love to cook but I enjoy eating out just as much. Eten aan de Rijn has a daily three-course menu for 25 euros. Excellent food and the owners Jaap and Nadja are great company!

For a huge splurge I go to one of the Michelin star restaurants in or near Amsterdam. My favorites include Ron Blaauw (in the village of Ouderkerk just outside the city) or ‘T Amsterdammetje and Tante Koosje (in the gorgeous village of Loenen aan de Vecht, about a 30-minute drive from Amsterdam).

Keith Jenkins

Photo ops in my city include the bridge that crosses the Groenburgwal canal, the Begijnhof and my absolute favorite spot in the city, the intersection of the Keizers and Leidse canals. The best vantage point is the rooftop of the NEMO science center.

If my city were a celebrity it’d be George Clooney; sexy, mondaine and despite its age, far from past its prime!

The most random thing about my city is how cosmopolitan it is. Almost 200 different nationalities live here, making it a very vibrant town with a broad array of cultural activities every day of the year… and all that within a village-like setting!

My city has the tallest men. The Dutch are some of the tallest people on this planet. Honestly, I sometimes feel like a dwarf (and I’m not particularly short!)

My city has the most diverse, sexy women.

In my city, an active day outdoors involves cycling around town (a daily activity) or into the nearby countryside (I love the route that follows the Amstel River down to the village of Ouderkerk). Rowing (in the Amstel River) is also a popular sport among the locals.

My city’s best museum is the Van Gogh Museum (I’m a big fan of Van Gogh). Amsterdam is famous for its museums and rightfully so. There are many of them, from the Rijksmuseum (with its stunning collection of Rembrandts) to the Hermitage (a branch of its famous namesake in St. Petersburg), the Tropenmuseum (Tropical Museum) and the Museum of Bags and Purses. Did I mention the Sex Museum?

My favorite jogging/walking route is along the entire length of the Keizersgracht– my favorite canal. It’s an excellent walking route through the heart of the city center, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Start at the canal’s intersection with the Brouwersgracht. You’ll pass the wonderfully atmospheric Jordaan neighborhood, the shopping haven in the Nine Streets neighborhood and many stately houses before reaching the Amstel River. I can also recommend the route along the Amstel River to Ouderkerk. As you leave the city behind you, you’ll pass beautiful windmills, grazing cows and sheep, and historic mansions.

For a night of dancing, go to Jimmy Woo. Or, for live music, check out Muziekgebouw aan ‘t Ij (the Music Center at the harbor front) for an eclectic variety of musical performances and great views of the harbor.

The FEBO, a Dutch institution, is the spot for late-night eats. It’s a quirky experience as you eat ‘out of a wall’ but you have to try it!

You can tell a lot about my city from its different neighborhoods.

You can tell if someone is from my city if they’re on a junk-like bike.

Keith Jenkins

In the spring you should head to the tulip fields a short drive outside Amsterdam around the town of Lisse.

In the summer you should join in the fun at the Vondel Park.

In the fall you should see the autumn leaves in the Amsterdamse Bos (the Amsterdam Forest).

In the winter you should catch a speed-skating competition along the canals (if the ice is sufficiently thick). It’s an unforgettable experience!

A hidden gem in my city is the Our Lord in the Attic Chapel in the Amstelkring Museum. It’s a hidden church with an intriguing history and a gorgeous interior!

For a great breakfast joint try Bagels & Beans.

Don’t miss the Holland Festival in June, the leading performance arts festival in the country. Visit IAmsterdam for info about events in the city.

The best way to see my city is to walk. Amsterdam is very compact so everything’s within walking distance.

Many things could only happen in my city. Amsterdam is (in)famous for its tolerant attitude, that acts like a magnet for many free-thinkers and progressives from around the world. Having lived here for twenty years, not many things surprise me these days.

My city should be featured on your cover or website because it’s arguably one of the most multi-faceted cities in the world. Its cosmopolitan landscape, liberal mentality, world-class museums, stunning canals and fascinating history merge to exude a unique charm that’s simply captivating.

Holidays are coming: Visit Stunning Historical Christmas Markets in Europe

Christmas is just around the corner and you can feel it in the air. It’s a time about family, love, peace, friends, presents, carols and joy.

However, if you are planning a vacation for this time of year, you should definitely visit one of the most spectacular Christmas markets in Europe.

These places can bring the romance of the holidays to life. Additionally,  you can experience the artisan crafts of a country and be delighted by the cheeriness that happens mostly in this Christmas time.

The interesting part is that some of these famous markets have been running since the Middle Ages, and nowadays they attract more than two million visitors during December.

You’ll fall in love immediately with the smell of gingerbread and roasting sausages in the cold air, handmade ornaments and the stress-free shopping in a traditional, festive environment. Don’t forget to enjoy all of this with a few mugs of mulled wine!

Brussels Christmas Market (Late Nov. – Jan. 1)

This place has been around since 2002 and takes over the Grand-Place, Brussels’ commercial hub. You will surely find here some good food stalls – don’t forget you are in a city famous for its cuisine and piles of Belgian chocolates.

The Christmas spirit will be brought to you by the lights, jugglers, street musicians and carols, which are filtered through loudspeakers.

At the end of your Christmas shopping, stop at the Fish market which is transformed annually into a long ice-skating rink.

Vienna Christmas Market (Mid Nov. – 24 Dec.)

Vienna’s venerable Christkindlmarkt is one of the most visited and best-known in Europe, attracting millions of visitors each year for beeswax candles, wooden toys, and glass ornaments.

Vienna Xmas Market

Vienna Xmas Market

Also, the tourists snack on cream-filled pastries, candied fruit, roasted chestnuts, and Weihnachtspunsch,a spiced “Christmas punch” of wine, brandy, or schnapps sweetened with warm fruit juices.

The market starts from mid-November and is one of the oldest in the world, dating back over seven hundred years. Another attraction is the park surrounding the market, with its trees decorated with themed lights, shaped like hearts or gingerbread men.

Vienna Christmas Market is definitely the place to be this season.

Prague Christmas Markets (Early Dec. – early Jan.)

If you didn’t know, you may as well find out that the Czechs take Christmas seriously and their Vanocni trh (Christmas markets) are family friendly and low-key. Although, several are dotted around town, the biggest is held in Old Town Square.

Prague Christmas Market

Prague Christmas Market

Visitors can buy here a large range of items, from the decorated stalls, wooden toys and Bohemian crystal to handmade jewelry and classic Czech marionettes.

And that’s not all – they can also find plenty of sweets – honeyed gingerbread, vánocvka (a braided pastry studded with raisins), and vosí hnízda’ (“wasps nests,” nutty cookies heavy with rum).

Kids can also enjoy the market, as they can play with ponies, goats and sheep in the central petting zoo, while their parents listen to the daily carol singers and music bands playing seasonal tunes.

Stuttgart Christmas Market (Late Nov. – Dec. 23)

This 318year-old market lies between the Gothic cathedral of the city and ivy-clad castle. Tourists can buy arts and crafts (glass baubles, wooden toys, nutcrackers) from the 270 stalls and eat waffles, roasted almonds, and gingerbread.

In the evening, they can warm up with some cinnamon and vanilla wine and visit the Old Castle’s Renaissance courtyard for the daily Christmas concert.

Nuremberg Christmas Market (Late Nov. – Dec. 24)

This market, which dates back from 1628 (original known as a regional centre for trading handmade wood figurines), is one of the famous Christmas markets in Europe.

Although it is neither the largest nor oldest, two million shoppers visit this place every year to enjoy the ornaments, crafts and toys found at almost 200 stalls.

Nuremberg Christmas Market

Nuremberg Christmas Market

Nowadays, Nuremberg market is best known for its food, gingerbread, and sweet with honey. In the evening, the place is lit with hundreds of lights and the musical bands would delight the visitors and locals.

Munich Christmas Market

Is set in the heart of the old centre, is filled with hundreds of stalls and dates back to the 17th century.

Munich Christmas Market

Munich Christmas Market

The market is opened on the Friday before the first Advent, when thousands gather in the square to watch the thirty metre-high Christmas tree light up for the first time. Here, visitors can buy decorations, jewellery, arts and crafts.

Salzburg Christmas Market (Late Nov. – Dec. 26)

Documents from the 15th century were found about this market, where crafts were being sold by elderly women in front of the Salzburg cathedral during Advent season.

Salzburg Christmas Market

Salzburg Christmas Market

This market is more intimate and smaller than others, but this doesn’t mean that tourists can’t enjoy roasted chestnuts and almonds, sausages, and sweet mulled wine. Just like the big, famous markets, the one in Salzburg thrills its tourists and locals with decorations, lights and carols.

Dresden Christmas Market (End Nov – Dec. 24)

This is the oldest market in Germany – its first mention was in 1434 and the locals are very proud and fond of their Striezelmarkt, named after the local ‘Striezel’ or Stollen, a sweet fruitcake baked in the shape of a loaf and dusted with icing sugar.

Dresden market has around 250 stalls selling strictly traditional wares and people say the shopping is better here than elsewhere.

If you know other interesting markets in Europe, we would love to hear about them.

Enjoy France by Train with a Eurail Pass

Paris, Bordeaux, Marseille, Nice. All these cities are connected to the French Railway Network.

Tasting wine in famous vineyards, hiking in the French Alps, enjoying local cuisine, all of it is possible if you travel on a Eurail Pass in France.

Rail Network

A Eurail Pass valid in France is valid on trains operated by SNCF, the national railway company of France. It is also valid for travel on trains operated by SNCF from France to Basel, Geneva (Switzerland), Port Bou (Spain) and Ventimiglia (Italy).

For detailed information on the French trains, visit the website of the French railway company SNCF.

France rail map

The French rail company, SNCF, provides direct service from most European countries using regular trains. The Eurostar service uses high-speed to connect Lille and Paris with London, the later via the Calais-Dover channel tunnel. The Thalys service uses high-speed TGV trains to connect Paris to Brussels and onward to cities in the Netherlands and Germany.

Railway Service

Exceptional comfort and the wide and various range of services available to customers have made TGV trains into a commercial success. In the enjoyment of a relaxed atmosphere passengers can read a book at leisure, write their postcards to their family and friends, make a phone call or just have a meal, relax and take pleasure in a smooth train ride.

Reservations

For some domestic trains in France Eurail Pass holders need to make a seat reservation.

  • Compulsory reservations for TGV and TEOZ high-speed trains cost 3 euro
  • Recommended reservations for Corail (IC)  trains cost 1,50.

Some international trains to and from France also require a reservation fee. Examples are the Eurostar to London, the ICE to Germany or the Thalys to The Netherlands.

Reservations can be made in advance through a travel agent, or at larger train stations in Europe. More about train seat reservations

Itineraries

Paris – Lyon – Marseille

Take your France Rail Pass and start at the bustling French capital Paris. Dyon is the gateway to the wine region of Burgundy. Lyon has some nice surprises in store (like a Renaissance quarter). Continue your journey through the Provence region, with cities like Orange and Avignon you shouldn’t miss. The tour ends at Marseille, a busy port town with an interesting blend of French and North African culture.

Tour stages and average journey times:

  • Paris – Dijon (1 hr 40 mins)
  • Dijon – Beaune (20 mins)
  • Beane – Lyon (2 hrs)
  • Lyon – Orange (2 hrs)
  • Orange – Avignon (1 hr 15 mins)
  • Avignon – Marseille (1 hr 20 mins)

As Marseille is a major railway junction, you have plenty of options to continue your French rail adventure from here.

Extra Info

Airport – station links

From Paris Airport Charles de Gaulle, there are connections to Paris Nord (RER Line B, Eurail Pass is valid in this direction only) and many other destinations. More details on the airport website.

From Lyon St. Exupéry there is a tram link to Lyon Part Dieu (Rhônexpress, every 15 minutes – Eurail Passes not valid).

Eurail Aid Offices in France

For questions about Eurail during your trip, visit the international ticket offices at Gare de Paris-Lyon, Gare de Paris–Nord, Gare de Paris-St. Lazare, Gare de Marseille St. Charles, Gare de Nice-Ville or Aéroport Charles de Gaulle (Paris CDG Airport).

Via eurail.com